These manifestations are the result of the combined effects of gravity, decreased tissue elasticity, progressive bone resorption and subcutaneous fat redistribution. Pigmentary and vascular impairments are responsible for color heterogeneity.

The degree of visual alterations is under the dependence of combined processes [1]:

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Chronological aging, linked to genetics.

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Photoaging, smoking habits, polluted environment

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Diet, sleeping patterns, alcohol or drugs consumption.

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Menopause.

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Existence of chronic diseases (diabetes, cancer, infections, etc.).

Considering genetics, every ethnic group presents different traits and different susceptibilities to aging.

The table below summarizes the points to take into account when addressing 4 of these various described populations [2] and a few examples of measurements before/after use of a product or product versus placebo or benchmark:

Aging signs on the face

Wrinkles

Lower face

Pigmentation

Caucasians

From 35 up to 55 years:

eye contour

From 20 years:

expression lines

From 35 years:

ptosis, nasolabial folds, mouth wrinklesIncrease of the volume of the face contours – FaceScan 3D device

From 60 years:

numerous pigmented spots
Decrease of lesions – Visia device

Afro-Americans

From 45 years

Decrease of the average roughness – Dermatop device

From 40 years:

ptosis – important loss of firmness

From 30 years:

open cheek pores

From 60 years:

pigmentation disorders

Asians

From 30 years:

especially eye area with bags, drooping eyelidSkin is smoother, eyelid is lifted – Dermatop device

From 50 years:

ptosis, nasolabial folds, mouth wrinklesDecrease in the depth of nasolabial folds – Primos Pico device

Between 35 and 60 years:

pigmentary signs evolve quickly

Indians

From 35 up to 39 years:

linear evolutionIncrease of isotropy – Primoslite device

From 35 up to 39 years:

linear evolutionIncrease of dermis/epidermis thickness – DermaScan device

From 20 years:

high pigmentation disorder

Decrease of the spot intensity and size – Scoring by a dermatologist

A better knowledge of each population specificities and needs allows to formulate cosmetic products that meet expectations [3].

However, nowadays, with increasing globalization and ethnical mixing, a new trend is emerging: “Multicultural beauty”.

The future aim seems to offer customizable products line adapted to individuals rather than marketing groups [4].

  1. Steventon K. Types of skin aging. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2013; 128: 298-299.
  2. Bazin R, Flament F, et al. Skin Aging Atlas. Caucasian / Indian / Asian / Afro-American Types. Med’Com editions.
  3. Caisey L, Grangeat F, Lemasson A et al. Skin color and makeup strategies of women from different ethnic groups. Int J Cosm Sci. 2006; 28: 6.
  4. Barillaro D. Multicultural beauty: many new shades for Millennials’ types of skin. Kosmetica World. 2016;1: 10-13.